Blog Posts

Permit Me To Explain...

5/26/2016

Some of you may get what this blog post is about simply by reading the title – others may not. It’s OK. I didn’t work that hard on the title anyway.

This blog post is about building permits. I bet you’re rolling your eyes right now…come on admit it. You hate building permits. Trust me, this will be an interesting read and you’ll thank me later. Well, maybe not but you've already read almost 2 paragraphs so you may as well keep reading.

I’ve worked in this business for almost 17 years (my dad almost 40 years) and I’ve heard every rationalization from homeowners as to why they don’t want permits for their projects…

“Permits are just a cash grab.”

“I don’t want the government telling me what I can and can’t do with my property.”

“It’s better to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission.”

As a homeowner, if the above phrases have ever crossed your lips – well, to not put to fine a point on it – you’re wrong.

We (meaning my dad and me) always get permits when they are required and they’re required for most everything. Every once in a while we perform a project that doesn’t require permits but those occasions are few and far between.

Building permits are indeed a revenue stream for whatever municipality is issuing them, no doubt about it, but they are required by law whether we like it or not. I happen to think they're a good thing.

Yes, you managed to find a builder who actually believes obtaining a building permit is a good thing. Here’s why…

Building permits are a form of consumer protection. Permits require a code-enforcement inspector to sign off on work at various stages throughout the project and are an official record that a project has been checked to be safe and sound. A building permit is the homeowner’s protection and is your guarantee that the job is safe and has been done, at least, to minimum code. (Minimum code is a great topic for another blog post)

A contractor who won’t obtain the required permits might also lack appropriate licensing and that’s something you should definitely know before your project starts. Not all municipalities require licensing but you you can easily verify it yourself by calling the friendly folks at your local building department or by heading over to their website. Most building departments have a list of licensed contractors on their website somewhere.

So what happens if you don’t get permits for your project? Well, I’m glad I asked - I mean you asked...whatever.

If authorities discover work being done without permits they will place a lovely bright red (sometimes orange, occasionally neon green) "cease and desist work order" on your front door, you may be fined, the contractor may be fined, and when your contractor does go get your permits they likely will double all the fees too. It’s not pleasant. It’s not fun.

It’s not worth it!

Also, as if the shame of a "cease and desist work order" lovingly placed on your front door by your friendly building inspector and fines aren't enough you could end up paying twice for work. This is because the code-enforcement department may require you to remove drywall, tile, etc to inspect work that has been done inside wall cavities such as wiring, plumbing, insulation, etc.

Building inspectors are not bad people. In fact, the ones we work with are nice folks who are doing an important job – looking out for your safety and ensuring that you’re getting what you’re paying for.

This article is for general information purposes only. Rick Kelley Builders makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability, or availability of any information contained herein.

Don't Get Burned!

4/27/2016

Don’t Get Burned!

Smoke alarms. I know it’s not exciting and I know this isn’t the most original topic for a blog but boy is this important. A properly maintained and fully functioning smoke alarm could save your life…really.

So why are so many of us uninterested in something that is so important? Seriously, I’m asking you…I have no idea why.

Regardless of what our reasons are - I’m here to tell you that we all need to do a better job and maybe save some lives while we’re at it.

First, before we talk about the different types of smoke alarms and where they should go let’s get something straight. Smoke alarms do not last forever. They need to be completely replaced every 8-10 years. Why you ask? Because over time the sensors lose sensitivity due to dust build-up and age. Yes, your house is dusty – so is mine – get over it.

Now that you are enlightened about how long smoke alarms last you’re no doubt thinking “where should they be installed in my house”? Well building codes vary depending on location but a general rule of thumb is there should be a smoke alarm in each bedroom, one generally outside of each sleeping area, and one on each floor.

OK, now don’t roll your eyes at me. I realize that’s a lot of smoke alarms but listen to what I’m saying - what’s more important than your life and why go cheap on something so important? Seriously, look at how much you’re spending a week on that daily Starbuck’s venti iced skinny hazelnut macchiato with two shots of sugar free syrup, light ice, and no whip. Why not spend some money on something that will possibly save your life and what in the world do they put in sugar free syrup?

Here’s the cool part for all you folks out there who like to know how things work. There are basically two types of smoke alarms…ionization and photoelectric.

Ionization smoke alarms have a small amount of radioactive material (don’t worry it’s a tiny amount) between two electrically charged plates, which ionizes the air and causes current to flow between the plates. When smoke enters the chamber it disrupts the flow of ions, thereby reducing the flow of current and activating the alarm. Ionization alarms are probably the most common here in the good ol’ USA and are generally more responsive to flaming type fires.

Photoelectric smoke alarms aim a light source into a sensing chamber at an angle away from the sensor. Smoke enters the chamber, reflecting light onto the light sensor and presto change-o sounds the alarm.. Photoelectric alarms are generally more responsive to fires that begin with a long period of smoldering.

So, which type is best? Well, it’s hard to know because we have no way of knowing what the future holds so when in doubt buy a duel sensor smoke alarm.

By the numbers:

• In 2007-2011, smoke alarms sounded in half of the home fires reported to U.S. fire departments.
• Three of every five home fire deaths resulted from fires in homes with no smoke alarms or no working smoke alarms.
• No smoke alarms were present in more than one-third (37%) of the home fire deaths.

*Above according to the National Fire Protection Association

So folks I’ve said it all... perhaps I’ve said too much. But this is really important stuff and your life may very well depend on your action or inaction when it comes to maintenance and proper placement of your smoke alarms.

Kitchen Countertops 101

4/8/2016

There are certain occasions in life that really make you feel like an adult such as buying a car, shopping for dinnerware sets, and choosing kitchen countertops. The countertops in your kitchen are central to the overall look and are one of the more important choices to make.

You may be overwhelmed by all the available options but luckily for you I’m here to boil it all down for you. Below I’ve chosen several of the more popular types of countertops and explain some of the more important pros and cons to get you started on your quest…

Laminate: This value-priced option has come a long way since it was first used in homes in the 1940s. Laminate is made of paper blended with resins and fused to particleboard. The latest designs on the market mimic stone, butcher block and other more expensive options.

Pros:

One of the most affordable countertop materials
Easy to maintain and clean
Lightweight
Somewhat flexible if you’re installing on existing cabinets that are not level

Cons:

Fairly easy to scratch and burn – must use a cutting board and trivets
Cannot accommodate an undermount sink
Difficult to repair if damaged
Is considered by some to be a lower-end product due to its cost so it may not be a good choice for higher-end homes

Solid Surface: Made primarily from acrylic and polyester - it was first sold under the brand name Corian, which is often used as a generic term for it. Corian was developed in 1967 and has been used somewhat steadily over the years.

Pros:

Lots of color options
Nonporous – no sealing or special cleaning required
Seamless installation meaning no joints in the material

Cons:

Scratches easily
Burns easily
Can have a patently artificial look and feel
Price approaches that of granite

Granite: Probably still the top choice in countertops – granite is literally mined out of the ground and is available in a variety of shades such as blacks, whites, corals, and beiges. Granite is typically available in two finishes, which are polished and honed.

Pros:

Has become affordable for standard colors
Unique one of a kind pieces
Can choose different textures such as polished, honed, or a leather look
Not easily scratched
Does not burn

Cons:

Is porous so most types require sealing but is easy to do but sealed with the right product can last 10 or more years
Can be expensive for non-standard colors

Quartz: Made of resin and quartz chips tinted with color, quartz countertops can be a good compromise between the beauty of granite and the easy care of solid surface countertops.

Pros:

Nonporous so material does not require sealing
Not easily scratched
Does not burn

Cons:

Does not have natural variation like granite so it may be evident that it’s a factory made product
Price point starts at mid-range granite

Marble: I felt I should put this on the list because I get asked about marble all the time. It’s a beautiful material but it has some setbacks especially in a kitchen. Marble is very porous (even when sealed) and it scratches very easily because it is a relatively soft material. So marble is indeed beautiful but keep it in your bathroom, fireplace, small wet bars, etc.

I could easily write another 10 pages on all the options available for kitchen countertops like copper, butcher block, soapstone, etc. but I’ll leave you with these 5. I don’t want to overwhelm you and frankly, it’s 5:30 PM on Friday and I’m tired!

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What You Caulkin' Bout?

3/21/2016

Have you taken a stroll down the caulk aisle of your favorite neighborhood hardware store lately? There’s latex caulk, silicone caulk, siliconized latex caulk, kitchen & bath caulk, butyl rubber caulk, and oil-based asphalt caulk to name just a few. What do all these do? Which one do you need? What’s the meaning of life?

I can’t help you with that last one but I can tell you a few things about caulk. Come on, don’t laugh – it’s important stuff.

Well, let’s start here first because it’s important that all of you understand these three points...

Caulk is not meant to fill wood
Caulk is not structural
Caulk is not glue

Phew…I feel better now that I’ve said it. Caulk fills voids and keeps everything tight. That’s it and it’s enough.

So as I mentioned above there are lots of different types of caulk so let’s delve into a few of the more popular types…

Latex Caulk – This type works just about as well as silicone and is by far the easiest to work with because latex caulk has no harsh odor (low VOC), is non-toxic, and is cleaned up easily with water.

The choices available within the latex caulk world are immense and range from cheap painter’s caulk that shrinks as it dries and has barely any crack resistance to urethanized acrylic-latex caulk that promise lifetime flexibility and paintability. There are also fast-drying versions available that are paintable in 30 minutes.

Latex caulk can be used on exterior siding and windows or interior baseboards, trim and mouldings and bonds well to surfaces like wood, stucco, plaster, tile, masonry, and glass.

Silicone – Silicone caulk is great stuff because it’s waterproof, flexible and is mildew resistant. It does have a few drawbacks though as it’s typically not paintable, requires alcohol or mineral spirits for cleanup, and has a strong odor until it cures.

Silicone caulk is an excellent choice for tub and shower surrounds, toilets, sinks – just about any area where will be exposed to water. Just remember that silicone caulk is generally not paintable so it’s not ideal for exterior uses.

Butyl Rubber – Butyl caulk is water resistant, stretches like chewing gum (but doesn’t go back to the original shape), and is water resistant and I mean really water resistant. Butyl caulk looks and behaves a lot like tar, which means it’s really messy stuff and requires cleanup with paint thinner. Butyl caulk really stinks too (as in smells bad) meaning it has a high VOC level. So because of it’s high VOC level butyl caulk is not available for purchase in several states like California.

Butyl caulk is perfect for use on gutters, chimneys, aluminum siding, flashing, and joints where two materials overlap.

So now after reading this amazingly helpful blog post you’re a caulk expert now right? Actually you’re probably not any better off and you probably feel like I just wasted 15 minutes of your day so here’s my personal opinion…use the best paintable latex caulk you can afford for anything that gets painted and use silicone for anything around a wet area (remember generally silicone is not paintable). Frankly, I haven’t used butyl caulk for anything in quite a while just because it’s such a mess to work with. Generally anything you’ll need to do as a homeowner you can get done with latex or silicone caulk.

Caulk is cheap so go forth and get to it!

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It's freezing outside! Are your faucets prepared?

1/11/2016

Whatever you call them - hose bibs, spigots, taps, faucets, yard hydrants – we’ve all got them around the exterior of our homes but do you really know how they work? Do you know why, at this time every year, I remind everyone who will listen to me to please remember to unhook your garden hoses from them?

OK I get it...I really do. You’re thinking “why did this guy spend part of his day writing a blog about hose bibs?” I’m writing about them because they’re important and also because I couldn’t think of anything else to blog about this week.

So let’s get down to it…

Garden Hoses - First and foremost I want to get this out of the way early on in case you people stop reading before you get to the end – if you still have garden hoses connected to your hose bibs unhook them now. That means stop sharing this amazing blog post with all your friends and go do it…right now! If you leave garden hoses hooked up the following could happen...don't say I didn't warn you.

What is Frost-free? - A frost-free hose bib has a stem that's 6 to 12 inches long that extends from the exterior wall of your home through the band into your basement. It prevents cold weather from freezing your pipes because the stem washer & seat valve reside inside your home where things are hopefully warm and snuggly. What this means is when you shut the valve off the water is actually stopped inside your home not at the handle outside.

Almost as important as the hose bib itself is how it’s installed. There should be a slight downward pitch to the valve (sloping out towards your yard). This allows whatever water is left in the 6 to 12 inch long pipe to drain out. This, my friends, is why it’s important to unhook garden hoses from hose bibs. With a hose still attached water will not drain out and can freeze and cause the pipe to burst.

As an added benefit the hose bib typically includes an anti-siphon system that stops water or other liquids from being siphoned back into the water supply. This is only relevant if you’re an idiot or you're a bad guy from a James Bond movie and have a garden hose that is connected to your hose bib with the other end resting in a bucket full of gasoline or some other toxic liquid chemical.

Do you have a frost-free hose bib? - Building codes require that our homes have frost-free exterior hose bibs so that’s likely what you have. I recommend though that you double check, especially if you live in an old home or are just concerned. The sure-fire way to tell is to look up inside the spout. On a frost-free hose bib you’ll see a metal stem running from the handle (like a metal dowel rod) back into your home. On a hose bib that isn’t frost-free you’ll be able to see valve components open and close when the handle is turned. If you see valve components opening and closing call a plumber and get it replaced with a frost-free valve.

So for all you people who skipped to the end here are the three important things to remember...

Unhook ALL garden hoses from exterior valves
Make sure you have frost-free style hose bibs and if you don't have them replaced
Make sure your frost-free hose bibs slope ever so slightly towards the exterior of your home

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Water in your basement? Oh no!

12/23/2015

Click on artwork above to purchase this great sign and more!

I was just looking at the weather forecast for the next week and it’s supposed to rain almost every day…ugh. There’s nothing like a wet Christmas.

Anyway with all this rain you might notice some water seeping through your foundation walls and even some water running across your basement floor. There are several reasons for this but one of the most common is something we in the business call negative grading. I’m not talking about report cards and gold stars but the ground level around your house and how it drives where rain water flows.

So let’s stop right here for a minute and talk about what usually causes a negative grade issue…

When the contractor excavated for your foundation, they over-dug by several feet to allow working room to build the foundation walls. Once completed, they back-filled the void, creating a positive grade (slope) away from the foundation. This disturbed back-fill continues to settle and compact for 100’s of years and this folks can cause negative grade.

Example of an over-dig around a new foundation wall

There are two kinds of grading...positive and negative. The good kind - positive grading - is when the ground slopes away from your home, directing water away from your foundation. The bad kind - negative grading - is when the ground slopes towards your home, directing water to your foundation. Bad things can happen when water runs back towards your home and not away.

Proper grading around your home is absolutely essential.

You must have a minimum five-degree slope away from your home, on all sides. What’s a five-degree slope? If you measure six feet away from the foundation, the ground should be three inches lower than the ground next to the house. Having a five-degree slope prevents water from pooling around your foundation. Remember, concrete isn’t waterproof. That means it doesn’t matter how watertight a foundation might be; if water is there long enough, it’s going to get in.

So what can you do about correcting a negative grade issue? Well it’s a pretty easy fix actually.

Remove any raised flowerbeds, mulch, or any soft topsoil and install good ol’ clay to build up the area of concern. It would help to compact the clay as you’re spreading it around too. Keep in mind the 5-degree slope rule. After the clay is compacted you can put topsoil over it or put your flowerbeds back.

A home requires a lot of maintenance and I can’t stress how important this particular item is. If you have a negative grade issue fix it as soon as possible.

Knock Knock...

12/17/2015

Are you hearing knocking, ticking, popping, clicking, or clunking noises coming from your basement? It could be that you’ve got one hell of a mouse problem or, more likely, it’s your water heater. Actually to be more accurate it’s the sediment sitting in the tank of your water heater causing the noises.

Let’s take a quick break and review how water heaters work…

Water heaters are fairly simple, actually. On top of every tank you'll find the water supply (going in) and delivery pipes (going out). The supply pipe routes cold water to the bottom of the tank through the dip tube. The hot-water delivery pipe takes water from the top. For safety, all water heaters are equipped with a T&P valve (temperature-and-pressure relief valve). This valve opens if either the temperature or pressure of the water exceeds a safe limit. The valve is connected to a pipe that runs down the outside of the tank, ending about 6 in. from the floor. The T&P valve should not be connected to a drain.

OK now that we're all water heater experts let’s continue…

Don’t freak out…sediment is normal and it doesn’t mean your water is dirty or contaminated. Our water is full of minerals, lime, etc that settle to the bottom of the tank once the water is introduced to heat. As these things build-up, not only is less water able to be stored (meaning you’ll run out of hot water faster), but the bigger issue is the water heater has to use more energy heating things up that aren’t water. Also if that extra stuff in your water heater builds up enough the sediment can find it’s way out and cause problems with circulating pumps, check valves, and faucets. Keep in mind that even if your water heater is quietly doing it's job there is likely sediment hanging out in the bottom of the tank and it still needs flushed out.

So what’s the answer? It’s pretty simple…flush out your water heater.

Turn off the power source (either electricity or turn the pilot control to “away” or “vacation”). This makes it so the water will begin to cool before you flush it out, minimizing burns. Obviously make sure you do this when no one will be showering, washing dishes, or washing clothes. If you want your wife to flip out…turn off the water heater while she’s taking a shower!
Turn off the cold-water inlet (located on the cold water pipe coming into the water heater). Without turning the cold-water inlet valve off, water will continually pump into the tank and you’ll never get it drained.
Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and run the other end of the hose to a floor drain in your basement. Make sure the rubber gasket is on the hose when you attach it to the water heater otherwise water will spray all over your basement.
Let the water cool. You don’t want to be draining boiling hot water through a cheap garden hose while likely wearing your house slippers.
Turn on a faucet or two. Yes this seems weird but here’s why…opening a faucet or two stops any vacuum from forming in your pipes which will actually keep water from draining. You hopefully won’t see much water (if any) coming out but do it anyway.
Drain the tank. Open the drain valve (located in the vicinity of where you have the garden hose connected). Make sure you keep the water flow regulated so the floor drain or whatever you’re using doesn’t overflow thereby getting your house slippers wet.
Open the cold-water valve. Do this with the drain valve still open so fresh water will flood the tank and wash any remaining sediment out.
Close the drain valve and leave the cold-water valve on. This will allow the tank to refill.
Turn off the one or two faucets you turned on in step 5.
Turn your water heater on. This might mean simply turning the control on your gas water heater back to your desired temperature setting or, if you’re water heater is electric, flipping a switch, a breaker, or whatever.
Make sure your pilot light is lit if you have a gas water heater. It should’ve stayed lit if you just turned it to “away” or “vacation” but make sure before you walk away and call the job “done”.

Obviously this is just a vague and quick guide on how to flush your hot water heater. The actual conditions at your house may vary, your level of handiness may vary, or you just may not want to fool with this. In any of those cases call a licensed plumber and they’ll be happy to take care of this for you.

Remodeling with Pets?

12/9/2015

Remodeling can be a lot of fun for us but isn't always fun for our furry friends. A lot of our clients worry about their pets and how they will cope with the weird noises and disruptions to daily life that go along with a remodeling project.

We respect the homeowners’ wishes for their pets and have several conversations with our clients as to their preferences. If pets need to stay in a pen or closed off in a room, we are more than happy to let them in and out during the day, and our crews regularly feed and water our clients’ pets. But if an owner prefers their pet to roam free, which is OK with us, we are hyper-aware of where they are and how to keep them from harm. It’s a major responsibility that we don’t take lightly.

We have spent decades remodeling with pets in the house and agree on this generalization: Dogs tend stay as far away from vigorous and loud activity while cats like to be right up in the middle of things like a miniature supervisor.

Here are some tips to help make your pet’s remodeling experience better…

If your pet can handle it try and introduce him/her to the folks working in your home. We try to staff the same craftsman on our projects from the beginning to the end and that gives your pet a chance to get to know everyone and hopefully develop a decent comfort level.

Create a pet safe room where there is nothing happening. Put their favorite bed, toys, water bowl, etc in there with them so they feel more comfortable. Some of our clients also say that leaving a television or radio on in the safe room helps drown out some of the construction noise. The more comfortable your pet is the less likely future remodeling projects will be a problem for them.

Make sure to talk with your contractor about when finishes that might have bad odors or substances that might be irritating will be used so you can plan on keeping your pet away during that time.

Talk with your contractor about how they will clean the work area at the end of each day. We totally clean the entire work area and make sure all tools are put away too.

Here are some things we’ve noticed over the past 35 years…

Dogs HATE the sound of nail guns and air hissing through hoses running from air compressors. This is where the safe room and music or television going in the background helps.

Cats will get into everything and LOVE getting into newly exposed areas of your home like joist spaces, attics, and crawlspaces and it is HARD to get them out. We keep these areas sealed up when cats are present in the home.

Both cats and dogs LOVE heated floors.

If you let someone in your home your dog generally assumes that person is safe and wants to immediately be friends. If you choose to not lock up your dog during the remodeling of your home (we are generally OK with that as we love animals) make sure your dog won’t bug the folks working in your home too much…you want us to keep working and get your project done!

Remodeling is about relationships as much as it is about home improvement and your pets are an important part of the relationship. Please be sure to have detailed conversations with any craftsmen that come into your home about the safety of your pets.

For pet friendly remodeling in the Columbus, OH area call 614.437.2013.

Pictured above is our old, diabetic, and wonderful Corgi...Emma.

Reality Show...Reality Check

7/20/2015

My wife loves them and they drive me crazy! Yep you guessed it…reality TV shows about remodeling.

I know you’re shocked to hear this but what you see on TV is not necessarily real life. Here’s why…

TIME

I’m sorry to be the one to tell you this, I really am, but it takes much longer than an hour to remodel your kitchen.

You need to understand that most remodel projects take months of planning and many more months for the construction phase. Believe me I would love for homeowners to go on a weeklong vacation to St. Bart’s and come home to a completely remodeled home but it just doesn’t work that way. Most large projects take weeks of design and planning to create a master plan, another 2-8 weeks to obtain a building permit, and anywhere from a month to 12 months for construction (depending on the size and scope of your project).

Other factors to consider include the fact that good contractors are usually booked out months before they can schedule the start of a new project. In addition, weather and the time of year will impact schedules. For example…we can’t dig a basement for a room addition when it’s going to rain for a week straight.

PLANNING

The extent of the design process typically shown on TV consists of the architect and his or her assistant having a brief conversation then immediately construction begins without discussing any of it with the folks paying for the project…the homeowners. I’ve never met a homeowner who would hand me a check and say “do whatever you think is best with my house”.

In addition to the quick design process shown they typically gloss over what is involved with changing anything that is structural such as moving walls, moving windows, moving doors, changing the roofline, etc. All of these issues have to be looked at by a structural engineer and approved before obtaining building permits.

PERMITS

The hours and money spent on acquiring the proper permits is definitely not the glamorous part of home remodeling but it’s a necessity. The Ohio building code states that builders/homeowners obtain a permit if they intend to "construct, enlarge, alter, repair, move or change the occupancy of a residential building or structure, or portion thereof."

Clear enough? Yeah not really. Basically any remodel project that requires electrical work, plumbing work, moving walls, or any sort of alteration requires a permit. It’s an important step and not obtaining permits can result in a big delay of the project, fines, etc.

This step goes hand in hand with the planning stages because we need architectural drawings to apply for permits. This process can take anywhere from 2-8 weeks to obtain permits and work cannot start until they are issued.

PRICE

It happens on remodeling realty shows over and over again: a homeowner has a long list of must-haves and an unbelievably tight budget. Miraculously, somehow, the remodeling team is able to deliver the home of their dreams for less than their unbelievably tight budget.

The TV networks often partner with advertisers that provide free materials and negotiate discounted rates with contractors in exchange for free publicity. These two items can cut the project cost by 50% to 75%...those are huge numbers!

So even though these shows are fun to watch don’t expect remodel projects in real life to mimic those you see on TV. Remodeling is fun, exciting, and a fascinating experience for you and your family if you don’t have unreasonable expectations. If you keep reality in check your home will be beautiful – it’ll just take more than an hour to get there.

Cheers!

Jeremy

For over 35 years Rick Kelley Builders has provided home building and remodeling services in the Central Ohio area. For more information check out our NEW & IMPROVED website by clicking HERE.

Thar She Blows...

6/29/2015

Did you just wake up from a nice relaxing night’s sleep to find water all over your kitchen floor, basement, or bathroom? It’s happened to all of us and it’s something that could’ve been prevented. I’m not pointing fingers here…I’m just as guilty as all of you. Yes the builder’s house is always the last one to get worked on…ask my wife.

The issue all starts way back when your dishwasher, washing machine, faucets, toilets and ice maker were all installed. Yep for some of us that could be 25 or more years ago or it could be last week.

For one reason or another (cost most likely) some installers and homeowners too choose to go with the less expensive option and choose rubber hoses or PVC hoses with braided nylon. These options are definitely less expensive and will definitely do the job…for a while.

So now you’re thinking just how long is “for a while”, right? The answer to that question is “who knows”. Believe me when I say...you don’t ever want to find out so here’s why it happens and what you can do about it…

What causes the flood, you ask? The water supply lines that run from the shut-off valves to your appliances or fixtures are always under pressure. That means you turn the appliance or fixture on and water immediately jets out. Those supply lines are typically made of PVC or rubber. Now here’s the rub (pun intended) - rubber and PVC degrades and overtime can crack, rot, and rupture, causing a pressurized geyser (ahhh now the title of this blog makes sense) of water that will run and run and run some more until the valve manually shut off.

Now just how much water will be pouring into your home? The typical residential water system puts out about 6 gallons per minute. I’ve never been good at math so my daughter tells me that’s a whopping 360 gallons of water pouring into your home every hour! For all you bourbon drinkers out there that equates to roughly 6.5 barrels of bourbon every hour.

Well this, my friends, brings us to the point of this whole blog post…replace all the rubber and PVC supply lines in your home! You heard me...every last one of them. Braided stainless steel supply lines are considered to be the gold standard and have an inner neoprene liner and their failure rate is slim to none. They’re also a brushed-stainless finish that are good looking too—a plus where lines are visible like under pedestal sinks.

Braided stainless steel supply lines are your best bet however nothing is perfect and you therefore need to use common sense too. The very best insurance is to replace all the supply lines every 8-10 years and to keep an eye on them – if there is any hint of corrosion, bulging, etc REPLACE IT IMMEDIATELY!

Flexible supply lines come in different lengths so you need to know the distance from the shut-off valve to the fixture before you buy a replacement. Most importantly you must know and specify to the salesperson what the line is for, since your washing machine, toilet, sink, etc. have different size fittings. Your best bet is to take the old hose with you.

Oh and one more thing...

I always try and get the following tidbit out as much as I can and this article lends itself well to this…ALWAYS TURN THE WATER OFF TO THE HOUSE WHEN YOU LEAVE TOWN FOR MORE THAN 24 HOURS! You never know if a pipe is going to freeze, if a supply line is going to burst, or if a whole bunch of other bad things will happen while you’re out of town. You should also make sure everyone in your home is familiar with the location of the main shut-off valve in case the water needs shut-off in a hurry.

OK so that's it. I truly hope none of you have to deal with a burst water supply line related flood but if you do just remember...I told you so.

Cheers!

Jeremy

For over 35 years Rick Kelley Builders has provided home building and remodeling services in the Central Ohio area. For more information check out our NEW & IMPROVED website by clicking HERE.

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