All Categories

To Tub or Not to Tub...

1/3/2018

Huge bathtub or spa-like shower? It’s a hot topic right now and is likely a question you’ll be faced with when considering a master bathroom remodel. Before you take the plunge and yank out your big tub (get it?) though here are some things to consider…

It may seem obvious but when making this decision, first determine what your needs are currently and what they may be in subsequent years. I don’t imagine you have a crystal ball but do your best to think about how long you’re going to live in the house, where your health might be heading, etc.

For many of our clients who rarely use their tubs, it seems that an awesome shower is the right answer for them. They can’t wait to yank out their old dust-collecting tub and replace it with a sleek-looking, glassed-in, dreamy shower.

One of the biggest reasons some of our clients choose to dump their tub is space. They would rather forego the tub and use that space for something that fits their lifestyle better – perhaps a larger shower with a seat, maybe more storage that includes drawers, and even another sink. Basically, what I’m saying here is that doing away with the large tub allows for more flexibility with the overall design of the space.

Some of our clients don’t care about space as much as they just want a big walk-in shower with glass walls and all the bells and whistles, such as overhead, wall-mounted and hand-held multi-function showerheads, thermostatic temperature controls, and steam features. They also want bench seats for added comfort and safety and built-in wall niches to hold soap and shampoo.

Spa-like showers may sound great and may be winning the argument here but don’t throw in the towel (see what I did there?) if you still love to soak in the tub. Our designer (that would be me) is happy to create a master bathroom design that’s right for you. For homeowners who want to keep a tub in their remodeled master bathroom, a smart choice for resale may be opting for a more energy and space efficient one-person soaking tub. Often a free-standing soaking tub can become a wonderful focal point in the room that adds a lot to the overall look and feel of the space.

I bet I know what you’re thinking now – “If I do end up choosing to dump my tub, how will that decision affect the resale of my home”? Most realtors believe preserving at least one bathtub somewhere in the home keeps the door open for buyers who prefer baths or for buyers who have young kids.

At the end of the day, it’s your house and it absolutely must fit your needs. So, whether you prefer showers or baths or a little of both, we’re here to help design a fantastic master bathroom that perfectly fits your needs.

This article is for general information purposes only. Rick Kelley Builders makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability, or availability of any information contained herein.

Exhaust Fans...What Are They Good For?

8/22/2017

I recently had the pleasure of spending a night at a fine hotel in downtown Dayton, OH where inspiration struck for this very blog post. I had just taken a lovely shower using the hotel provided vitamin-packed Mega-Rich collection of soaps when I flung the shower door open to find that the humidity level in the bathroom was equivalent to that of a rain forest in Brazil. Seriously, how am I to successfully style my hair with a fogged-up mirror? It’s barbaric.

Anyway, the fogged-up mirror got my humidity clogged brain thinking about exhaust fans in bathrooms and how important they really are. Yep…I’m always thinking about work.

So, why is it important that we have some sort of ventilation in our bathrooms?

The first thing that comes to mind is to remove unwanted and unpleasant odors due to, well, bathroom activities. Come on admit it…that’s what you were thinking and you’re partly correct.

Perhaps even worse than unpleasant odors in your bathroom is a build-up of unwanted steam. Without ventilation in your bathroom condensation can form on just about every surface in the bathroom causing paint to streak, mold to grow, wallpaper to peal, wood to rot, and even cause structural issues with the framing members that surround your bathroom.

Older homes often lack bathroom exhaust fans because in the good ‘ol days if the bathroom was smelly or steamy the architects and builders thought you could open a window. Seriously? Maybe if the weather is perfect but on days where temperatures are freezing or hot this isn’t a very logical ventilation method.

Experts agree that the best way to ventilate a bathroom is an exhaust fan. Exhaust fans should be at least 50 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and go up from there depending on the size of the bathroom and be vented straight to the exterior of your home (not into the attic as that can cause all sorts of mold issues too). Ideally the maximum duct length should be 10 feet or less – 20 feet if you must – with no more than a few elbows (each elbow has the equivalent resistance of 15 feet of smooth metal duct). Smooth-wall duct is preferable to flexible (ribbed) duct. If you must use the flexible (ribbed) duct it will increase the static pressure of the system so a more powerful fan will need to be used.

We recommend operating your exhaust fan for at least 15 minutes after finishing your bath or shower. This will help more the humid air out of the bathroom. We also recommend installing a digital or analog timer switch to control the exhaust fan (where applicable) which will automatically turn off the exhaust fan after a predetermined amount of time.

Do you already have an exhaust fan but suspect it’s not working? The simplest way to test your fan’s suction is to take a single square of toilet paper and place it along the fan vent while the fan is running. If the fan holds up the toilet paper then it’s working properly.

What did we learn?

excessive humidity in your bathroom is bad
If you don’t have exhaust fans in your bathrooms – get them and make sure they are vented directly to the exterior of your home
If you have existing exhaust fans test them using the toilet paper method
Consider installing a digital or analog timer to control the fan so it can continue to operate at least 15 minutes following the end of your bath or shower.

Don't Worry I'm a Professional!

7/12/2017

Well, it’s been nearly 6 months since I’ve last written a blog for our website. I apologize, dear reader, and understand if you’ve moved on to other more regular and well, probably better blogs. I do think about this blog often but things continually seem to get in the way.

Well not today! Today I am determined to write something, anything. Maybe the best thing to do is write about what I’ve been up to lately.

I, Jeremy Kelley, now have initials after my name. Yep initials or post-nominal letters if you want to get technical about it. As of about a month ago I passed the test and now hold the designation of Certified Kitchen & Bath Remodeler per the National Association of the Remodeling Industry. I am one of only two remodelers in the entire Central Ohio area to hold this certification.

The National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) is the only national association dedicated solely to the remodeling industry. NARI’s focus is on professional conduct, continuing education, training, and fair and ethical treatment. NARI certification serves as the association’s recognition of remodeling pros who have met stringent criteria for experience who have pledged to commit to a high standard of practice and NARI’s strict Code of Ethics.

To prepare for the CKBR certification I had to complete a qualification form that outlined my background in the remodeling and construction industry and education, amass a considerable amount of continuing education hours, take roughly 16 weeks of courses, and pass a comprehensive exam. The exam assessed my knowledge in over 20 remodeling task areas including business methods and practices, building codes and construction law, computer aided design, kitchen and bath planning, building site layout, and math. Yep you heard me…the exam included math and a lot of it and I still passed.

To maintain the certification, I must continue to work full-time as a professional in the remodeling industry. This obviously isn’t an issue because well it’s my job. I also must get at least 10 continuing education credits per year which is something I'm actually really looking forward to doing...continuing to learn.

This certification does not mean we are just focusing on kitchen and bath remodels now. We, as always, are still your go-to company for all your remodeling needs including basements, room additions, screened porches, etc.

For more information about the Certified Kitchen & Bath remodeler program click HERE

As The Ceiling Fan Turns

12/15/2016

Yes, I’m aware that the high today is something awful like 13 degrees and, yes, this blog post is about ceiling fans. I haven’t gone crazy…ceiling fans can be used in the winter too and not just to drown out your snoring spouse who sounds like a walrus with a head cold.*

When you think of ceiling fans you first think about using them in the summer months to push cool air down to the floor. The cool air blowing down from the ceiling creates a wind chill effect, which makes you feel cooler without actually having to lower the temperature on your thermostat. In fact, if you run ceiling fans in your home you may even be able to raise the temperature in your home thus saving some money on your electric bill.

Now here’s the part you all have been waiting for…to hear how you could possibly benefit from using a ceiling fan in the winter.

Unlike summer where we want to feel a cool breeze while luxuriating in our Barcalounger, in winter we want to avoid the feeling of a breeze and feel warm and cozy. Fortunately, ceiling fans can help in the winter by moving the warmer air that resides comfortably up at the ceiling down into the room.

Now, I’m sure all of you were great students and remember that warm air rises because warm air is lighter than cold air. It all has to do with molecules and their distance between each other or something like that. Honestly, I can’t remember the details of why and I don’t feel like searching the Google for it.

Anyway, here are a few general rules to follow to make all this work:

The direction of the fan is determined by standing right under the thing and looking up at the ceiling.
During the summer months the fan should be blowing straight down (blades turning counter-clockwise) to create the wind chill effect I talked about earlier.
During the winter months the fan should be reversed (blades turning clockwise) to force the warm air down.

“How do I reverse my fan”, you ask?” First (this is important now) make sure the fan is turned off and stopped completely before you do anything. You do not want to change the direction of the fan with the blades rotating and you also don’t want to be looking around the fan with the blades turning…nothing good will come of it especially if you value your fingers and nose. Next, look for a small toggle switch (see handy photo below) located somewhere on the housing just below the blades and flip the switch. If you have one of those fancy fans that include a remote control then this can all be done with the push of a button.

Now the above information is simply a guideline for the summer and winter and it doesn’t mean you can’t change the direction of your fan anytime you want. Some of you fine folks don’t want the fan in your bedroom blowing on you all night and that’s great…set your fan to spin clockwise. Some of you don’t want your fan blowing cards around during a poker game and that’s totally understandable…set your fan to spin clockwise. It’s all good.

With your ceiling fan you can effectively stay cooler in summer and warmer in winter simply with the flip of a switch. It’s like magic…well except with a switch.

*Of course, I am not referring to my wife as snorning so bad that she sounds like a "walrus with a head cold". In fact, I have been reliably informed that my own snoring is even worse. Hey, maybe that's why our ceiling fan runs every night all night long. Huh...

Don't Make These Mistakes

11/19/2016

I know what you’re thinking…“Bathrooms look easy to remodel. How hard can it be?”

My mind-reading powers are amazing right? Actually, I know you’re shocked to hear that I don't actually have the power to read minds…I’ve just been in the remodeling business for a long time.

Bathrooms are amazingly complex spaces and much harder to remodel than what it appears to be on a 30 minute HGTV show…trust me.

Think about it…bathrooms get hot, cold, humid, and dry all within about 10 minutes. OK maybe 20 minutes if you’re a person who likes to luxuriate in the shower. Either way you’ve got the bathroom temperature fluctuating like the weather in Ohio along with crazy humidity levels coupled with all sorts of electrical wiring, lights, etc. It’s serious stuff.

When things go wrong with a bathroom remodel – they go very wrong very quickly. So whether you attempt to remodel your bathroom yourself or hire a contractor avoid these common mistakes and you’ll thank me for it.

NO STORAGE

I get it that you want to create a stress-free space where time seems to stand still and your worries fade away. The way to do that is to go minimalist and streamline the design…pretty cool. The mistake here though is that people tend to go a little overboard and don't include places to store things so the opposite happens and you end up with stuff sitting all over the countertop, towels flung over the shower door, and yep you guessed it…a plunger sitting on the floor next to the toilet. Don’t be that person.

Make sure you have storage somewhere for all your stuff. One possible option is to install a tower cabinet between the sinks that includes electrical outlets inside of it to recharge your razor or toothbrush.

BUYING MISMATCHED HARDWARE AND FIXTURES

You may be thinking "who cares if the finish on the faucet matches the finish on the towel bars"? Well, you may not care but the folks looking to buy your house one day will definitely care. So I'll lay it on you...if you buy a brushed nickel faucet then the towel bars, valve trims, tub spout, shower head, and toilet lever (yep, even the toilet lever) all need to match. One word of caution, manufacturers often have different ideas of what brushed nickel or oil-rubbed bronze are supposed to look like. Stay with the same manufacturer for all the fixtures, if possible.

This may seem like a no-brainer to you but if you choose a white sink go with a white toilet and white tub. They should all match.

USING CHEAP, BAD, OR NO UNDERLAYMENT

You will never see the underlayment again after the tile is installed but it'll be there for the life of your bathroom protecting against water damage, humidity issues, etc. The first and most important thing you need to know is don't use green board (basically water resistant drywall) behind your shower tile. Over time it will deteriorate. Don't use it.

There are many good choices for tile underlayment. Most folks use cement board installed per the manufacturer's specs with waterproofing etc.

NOT OBTAINING A BUILDING PERMIT

In most municipalities it is against the law to perform a remodel project without a building permit. Over and above the legalities of it there are other compelling reasons…if you get caught without a permit they legally can force you to remove tile, drywall, etc to inspect inside the walls and they can and will fine you and then force you to get the proper permits anyway. One of the biggest reasons to get a permit is that potential homebuyers, on advice from realtors, are starting to request copies of permits to verify that you have remodeled your home safely and that it meets building codes. Seriously, just get a permit. It’s a Saturday and I don’t feel like typing a long drawn-out explanation for this so just click HERE to read a blog post I wrote a few months ago that goes into more detail.

USING CHEAP MATERIALS

Second to your kitchen, the bathroom is the hardest working room in your house. It is used multiple times a day and needs to withstand years of moisture, traffic, and regular (hopefully) cleaning. Everyone has a budget but it’s important that you choose the best materials you can afford including plumbing fixtures, tile, and paint. Yes, even paint. Paint is important too because of the ever-changing humidity levels.

FOLLOWING TRENDS

It’s OK to look at magazines and various websites to help with bathroom remodel ideas but try to resist making your bathroom too trendy. All of those hip fixtures and colors may be cool now but they can and likely will look goofy in a few short years. Choose items that stand the test of time.

SPENDING TOO MUCH MONEY

Yeah I know I just said to spend money and get quality materials and now I’m saying don’t spend too much money. You need to find a balance between the two. Make it nice but don't go crazy unless you plan to not sell your home for a long time.

So, what have we learned? We learned to not let HGTV shows fool us into thinking that remodeling is easy, we learned to be sensible with your remodeling projects, and we learned that I have indeed learned something in my 16 years of working in the remodeling business and 38 years of being around it.

SHAMELESS PLUG

Why worry about all this on your own? Hire a family-owned remodeling company to guide you through the process (including your own personal designer). Contact us today at 614-437-2013 for a quote on your bathroom remodel or any other remodel project for that matter.

It's not the heat it's the humidity!

7/31/2016

I find myself back at the old computer today writing this blog post for you, my amazing fans – all 5 of you – it’s a work in progress. Anyway, this blog post is about whole house humidifiers. Yep, I know the exciting subject of humidifiers has been keeping you up nights. Humidifiers are important for your health, the health of your home, and your comfort.

Before I get into this we need to make sure we all understand what a whole house humidifier is and when it should be used…

A whole house humidifier works by introducing moisture to the air that’s being warmed and distributed throughout your home. As air travels through the ductwork in your home, it passes through the humidifier (typically mounted on the side of your furnace) where water flows through a panel inside the unit. The air absorbs the water from the panel, thus raising the humidity levels of your entire home. The most important thing to remember though is a humidifier should only be used during the winter months when humidity is already low. Believe me in the summer, at least in Central Ohio, we don't need to add humidity to the air. It’s been miserably humid here lately…amiright?

So now that we all are on the same page here’s why you should want one…

Health
Low humidity can increase your likelihood of getting colds, flu and other upper respiratory ailments. Viruses that cause colds and flu thrive in low humidity. According to The American Society of Otolaryngology (basically ear, nose, and throat doctors and yes, I had to Google “Otolaryngology”) dry air can make people more susceptible to infection. There is also research that shows dry air can also aggravate allergy and asthma symptoms. As if all the above isn't enough, dry air in our homes can cause dry skin and nose bleeds.

Comfort
We humans sense heat and cold basically using two indicators – ambient temperature and relative humidity. A temperature with only 10% relative humidity feels like 65 degrees but if the relative humidity is increased to 40% it feels like 68 degrees. That is a 3 degree increase in comfort by adding water to the air…pretty amazing right?

Your Home and your stuff
Air that is too dry can wreak havoc on your home including causing your wood floors to contract, drywall to crack, baseboard and casing trim to contract and crack, damage electronics, and even cause paint to peel.

Wow…look at all we’ve learned about whole house humidifiers. I sure feel better now.

But wait, as Steve Jobs would always say, there’s one more thing. What’s the ideal relative humidity level for your home you ask? Well, go buy yourself a hygrometer (I had to Google that one too) and keep your home’s relative humidity level somewhere between 40% - 50%. Obviously, while you’re messing with your humidifier and your new hygrometer (ha…I got to use that word twice in a blog post and will probably never say it again) keep an eye on your windows. If there is condensation on them then turn the humidifier down a little.

Thanks for spending a few minutes with me today! Now go forth and get your humidifier ready for winter. If you need one installed, one replaced, or one repaired call your local HVAC contractor…they’ll be able to take care of whatever you need done.

I enjoy learning new things and I think the following is kinda interesting...

In the Dog House

7/12/2016

Emma, my Corgi, relaxing in her memory foam bed.

I haven’t written a blog post in a month or so and I forced myself today to sit down this evening and get something typed.

So, I’m sitting here at my kitchen table looking at Facebook - I mean working on this blog post - and in walks my wonderful, old, half blind, diabetic dog who proceeds to lay down on the floor next to me (I am her favorite person, by the way) and it occurs to me that this dog - this animal who has loved me unequivocally for 13 years - is part of my family. She’s just as part of the family as my daughter and my wife.

I work hard every day to come up with ways to make my client’s homes better for them, for their lifestyle, and for their families. Why not attempt to make homes better for their dogs and cats too?

So here are some ideas for making your home more comfortable, user-friendly, and just better for you and your dog.

Storage:

Pets are like children in that they collect a lot of stuff like toys, food, leashes, carriers, etc. My dog sure does collect stuff ranging from piles of toys to diabetes testing supplies. When remodeling or adding a new mudroom or designing a new kitchen, make sure you design the space and the storage cabinetry to handle all their stuff.

Feeding:

There’s really never a great place, it seems, to put your pet’s food bowls, right? Well, why not install a built-in feeding area in your mudroom or kitchen to make it easier? Ideas include a built-in drawer that holds the food and water bowls and/or a water fountain that connects directly to your home water supply. That way your pet will always have fresh water.

Bathing:

At least in my house, a dog bath typically consists of a garden hose, some soap, and a short leash. Nowadays homeowners want something easier and better looking. A great idea is to add a designated shower or bath for your pet. Typically, it is located in a garage (as long as your local building department allows it) or in a mudroom or laundry room so your dog (I pity the person who has to bathe their cat) can be washed and dried before he or she is allowed into the actual house. In some cases these high-end pet showers are replacing the sink in the laundry room and serving as a combined laundry sink and pet shower…pretty cool!

Flooring:

I know this is pretty obvious but I’m going to say it anyway…ceramic tile is probably the most practical choice for pets especially if you make sure the grout joints are sealed well and then maintained. Most of us, though, don’t want to tile our entire homes so the next logical step from tile is a natural hardwood. With hardwood, choose one of the hardest woods available such as maple or oak. Also, make sure to use high-quality polyurethane to seal and protect the floor.

Aging-in-Place

Unfortunately we all get older and our pets certainly do too. Our pets can also benefit from planned aging-in-place designs and changes. Ramps or low-rise steps to your dog’s favorite sleeping spots (including your bed) will help with leg and hip issues, well lit stairwells (that helps us too actually) will help pets with poor vision (like my dog), and well placed beds around the house (maybe in conjunction with a built-in) also allows them to lay in a bed but stay close to us.

So, I think this blog post turned out pretty well considering I didn’t have a clue what to write about before I sat down at the computer.

Thanks for spending a few minutes of your day with me.

Now go outside and play with your dog, I am! Emma is waiting on me...

Emma is partially blind now so we have to play fetch with a ball she can see.

Permit Me To Explain...

5/26/2016

Some of you may get what this blog post is about simply by reading the title – others may not. It’s OK. I didn’t work that hard on the title anyway.

This blog post is about building permits. I bet you’re rolling your eyes right now…come on admit it. You hate building permits. Trust me, this will be an interesting read and you’ll thank me later. Well, maybe not but you've already read almost 2 paragraphs so you may as well keep reading.

I’ve worked in this business for almost 17 years (my dad almost 40 years) and I’ve heard every rationalization from homeowners as to why they don’t want permits for their projects…

“Permits are just a cash grab.”

“I don’t want the government telling me what I can and can’t do with my property.”

“It’s better to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission.”

As a homeowner, if the above phrases have ever crossed your lips – well, to not put to fine a point on it – you’re wrong.

We (meaning my dad and me) always get permits when they are required and they’re required for most everything. Every once in a while we perform a project that doesn’t require permits but those occasions are few and far between.

Building permits are indeed a revenue stream for whatever municipality is issuing them, no doubt about it, but they are required by law whether we like it or not. I happen to think they're a good thing.

Yes, you managed to find a builder who actually believes obtaining a building permit is a good thing. Here’s why…

Building permits are a form of consumer protection. Permits require a code-enforcement inspector to sign off on work at various stages throughout the project and are an official record that a project has been checked to be safe and sound. A building permit is the homeowner’s protection and is your guarantee that the job is safe and has been done, at least, to minimum code. (Minimum code is a great topic for another blog post)

A contractor who won’t obtain the required permits might also lack appropriate licensing and that’s something you should definitely know before your project starts. Not all municipalities require licensing but you you can easily verify it yourself by calling the friendly folks at your local building department or by heading over to their website. Most building departments have a list of licensed contractors on their website somewhere.

So what happens if you don’t get permits for your project? Well, I’m glad I asked - I mean you asked...whatever.

If authorities discover work being done without permits they will place a lovely bright red (sometimes orange, occasionally neon green) "cease and desist work order" on your front door, you may be fined, the contractor may be fined, and when your contractor does go get your permits they likely will double all the fees too. It’s not pleasant. It’s not fun.

It’s not worth it!

Also, as if the shame of a "cease and desist work order" lovingly placed on your front door by your friendly building inspector and fines aren't enough you could end up paying twice for work. This is because the code-enforcement department may require you to remove drywall, tile, etc to inspect work that has been done inside wall cavities such as wiring, plumbing, insulation, etc.

Building inspectors are not bad people. In fact, the ones we work with are nice folks who are doing an important job – looking out for your safety and ensuring that you’re getting what you’re paying for.

Don't Get Burned!

4/27/2016

Don’t Get Burned!

Smoke alarms. I know it’s not exciting and I know this isn’t the most original topic for a blog but boy is this important. A properly maintained and fully functioning smoke alarm could save your life…really.

So why are so many of us uninterested in something that is so important? Seriously, I’m asking you…I have no idea why.

Regardless of what our reasons are - I’m here to tell you that we all need to do a better job and maybe save some lives while we’re at it.

First, before we talk about the different types of smoke alarms and where they should go let’s get something straight. Smoke alarms do not last forever. They need to be completely replaced every 8-10 years. Why you ask? Because over time the sensors lose sensitivity due to dust build-up and age. Yes, your house is dusty – so is mine – get over it.

Now that you are enlightened about how long smoke alarms last you’re no doubt thinking “where should they be installed in my house”? Well building codes vary depending on location but a general rule of thumb is there should be a smoke alarm in each bedroom, one generally outside of each sleeping area, and one on each floor.

OK, now don’t roll your eyes at me. I realize that’s a lot of smoke alarms but listen to what I’m saying - what’s more important than your life and why go cheap on something so important? Seriously, look at how much you’re spending a week on that daily Starbuck’s venti iced skinny hazelnut macchiato with two shots of sugar free syrup, light ice, and no whip. Why not spend some money on something that will possibly save your life and what in the world do they put in sugar free syrup?

Here’s the cool part for all you folks out there who like to know how things work. There are basically two types of smoke alarms…ionization and photoelectric.

Ionization smoke alarms have a small amount of radioactive material (don’t worry it’s a tiny amount) between two electrically charged plates, which ionizes the air and causes current to flow between the plates. When smoke enters the chamber it disrupts the flow of ions, thereby reducing the flow of current and activating the alarm. Ionization alarms are probably the most common here in the good ol’ USA and are generally more responsive to flaming type fires.

Photoelectric smoke alarms aim a light source into a sensing chamber at an angle away from the sensor. Smoke enters the chamber, reflecting light onto the light sensor and presto change-o sounds the alarm.. Photoelectric alarms are generally more responsive to fires that begin with a long period of smoldering.

So, which type is best? Well, it’s hard to know because we have no way of knowing what the future holds so when in doubt buy a duel sensor smoke alarm.

By the numbers:

• In 2007-2011, smoke alarms sounded in half of the home fires reported to U.S. fire departments.
• Three of every five home fire deaths resulted from fires in homes with no smoke alarms or no working smoke alarms.
• No smoke alarms were present in more than one-third (37%) of the home fire deaths.

*Above according to the National Fire Protection Association

So folks I’ve said it all... perhaps I’ve said too much. But this is really important stuff and your life may very well depend on your action or inaction when it comes to maintenance and proper placement of your smoke alarms.

Kitchen Countertops 101

4/8/2016

There are certain occasions in life that really make you feel like an adult such as buying a car, shopping for dinnerware sets, and choosing kitchen countertops. The countertops in your kitchen are central to the overall look and are one of the more important choices to make.

You may be overwhelmed by all the available options but luckily for you I’m here to boil it all down for you. Below I’ve chosen several of the more popular types of countertops and explain some of the more important pros and cons to get you started on your quest…

Laminate: This value-priced option has come a long way since it was first used in homes in the 1940s. Laminate is made of paper blended with resins and fused to particleboard. The latest designs on the market mimic stone, butcher block and other more expensive options.

Pros:

One of the most affordable countertop materials
Easy to maintain and clean
Lightweight
Somewhat flexible if you’re installing on existing cabinets that are not level

Cons:

Fairly easy to scratch and burn – must use a cutting board and trivets
Cannot accommodate an undermount sink
Difficult to repair if damaged
Is considered by some to be a lower-end product due to its cost so it may not be a good choice for higher-end homes

Solid Surface: Made primarily from acrylic and polyester - it was first sold under the brand name Corian, which is often used as a generic term for it. Corian was developed in 1967 and has been used somewhat steadily over the years.

Pros:

Lots of color options
Nonporous – no sealing or special cleaning required
Seamless installation meaning no joints in the material

Cons:

Scratches easily
Burns easily
Can have a patently artificial look and feel
Price approaches that of granite

Granite: Probably still the top choice in countertops – granite is literally mined out of the ground and is available in a variety of shades such as blacks, whites, corals, and beiges. Granite is typically available in two finishes, which are polished and honed.

Pros:

Has become affordable for standard colors
Unique one of a kind pieces
Can choose different textures such as polished, honed, or a leather look
Not easily scratched
Does not burn

Cons:

Is porous so most types require sealing but is easy to do but sealed with the right product can last 10 or more years
Can be expensive for non-standard colors

Quartz: Made of resin and quartz chips tinted with color, quartz countertops can be a good compromise between the beauty of granite and the easy care of solid surface countertops.

Pros:

Nonporous so material does not require sealing
Not easily scratched
Does not burn

Cons:

Does not have natural variation like granite so it may be evident that it’s a factory made product
Price point starts at mid-range granite

Marble: I felt I should put this on the list because I get asked about marble all the time. It’s a beautiful material but it has some setbacks especially in a kitchen. Marble is very porous (even when sealed) and it scratches very easily because it is a relatively soft material. So marble is indeed beautiful but keep it in your bathroom, fireplace, small wet bars, etc.

I could easily write another 10 pages on all the options available for kitchen countertops like copper, butcher block, soapstone, etc. but I’ll leave you with these 5. I don’t want to overwhelm you and frankly, it’s 5:30 PM on Friday and I’m tired!

Now go like our Facebook page HERE!

<<Previous

To Tub or Not to Tub...

Exhaust Fans...What Are They Good For?

Don't Worry I'm a Professional!

As The Ceiling Fan Turns

Don't Make These Mistakes

It's not the heat it's the humidity!

In the Dog House

Permit Me To Explain...

Don't Get Burned!

Kitchen Countertops 101

Author

Archives

Categories

﻿Author﻿

Archives

Categories

Author